 Paro,
the most beautiful of all Bhutan's valley, was also historically
the centre of two of the most important trade routes to Tibet.
Today the new road to Phuntsholing
on the Indian border runs through the valley, amid a patch
work of rice, paddies, wheat fields, trout filled streams
and scattered settlements.
Here the Paro Chuu flows south from its watershed in the chomolahri
range. Above it in a rocky outcrop of the sleep hillside stands
the Paro Dzong, at an altitude of just over 7000 feet, over
looking both sides of the valley this dzong was historically
one of Bhutan's strongest and most strategic fortresses. Before
the rebuilding of the Tashi Chho Dzong at Thimpu,
it was also the seat of the National Assembly.
The Paro Dzong has a long and fascinating history. A monastery
was first guilt on the site by Padma Sambhava at the beginning
of the tenth century.
When in future years, the legend goes a lama went into the
forest to prepare planks for a chapel, he uttered the mantra
"Hun" and the planks miraculously moved on their
own town the site work on the Hunrey Gompa, carries on by
the village by day, was continued at night by the spirit and
the hoof marks left by their horses are still visible today
as evidence for the unbelieving.
In 1646 Ngawang Namgyal built a larger monastery on the old
foundations, and for centuries this imposing five storey building
served as an effective defence against numerous invasion attempts
by the Tibetans. Built with stones instead of clay, the Dzong
was named Rinpung, meaning "heaps of jewels". Tragically
Rinpung and all its treasures were destroyed by the fire in
1907. Only one thangka, known as Thongdel, was saved. Painted
in remembrance of Padma Sambhavna the bringer of Buddhism,
the Thongdel is a large and exquisite example of the Bhutanese
art of fashioning religious scroll paintings from silk and
cotton. It is believed that by visiting the monastery and
paying homage to the Thongdel, the faithful can attain nirvana.
It is displayed only once a year, for a few hours during the
five-day spring tsechu of the Dzong.
The Paro Dzong was rebuilt by the penlop dawa Penjor right
after the fire. Housed within its walls is a collection of
sacred masks and costumes. Some date back several centuries;
others were contributed by Dawa Penjor and his successor Penlop
Tshering Penjor in recent times.
On the hill above the Dzong stands an ancient watchtower which
has been, since 1967, the National Museum of Bhutan.
 Inside
the Dzong, at the entrance to the Paro Lhakhang, is found
a Kunrey, or terrace, where the states of heaven, earth and
hell are graphically depicted. Across a medieval bridge below
the Dzong stands the Ugyenpelri palace, a royal residence
constructed by penlop Tshering Penjor and fashioned after
the heavenly abode of the revered Shabdung Rimpoche. A few
miles to the north, overlooking the Paro Chuu, is found the
Kyichu Lhakhang, one of Bhutan's two ablest and most sacred
monasteries, dating from the introduction of Buddhism in the
18th century. (The other is the Jampa Lhakhang in Bumthang.)
The central temple was erected in 1830 and a golden roof added
to the monastery itself. A new extension was built by the
present Queen Mother. Further up the valley, the Drukgyel
Dzong, now in ruins, recalls the days when Bhutan was frequently,
and successfully, attacked by armies from the north built
by Ngawang Namgyal to commemorate an early military victory
the Dzong name means, indeed, "Victorious Druk."
Perched on top of a hill, it can be entered only from one
side and this is protected by three tall towers. A unique
turreted passageway, deigned to ensure water supplies in times
of war, connects the fortress to the far riverbank. The Drukgyel
Dzong was laid waste by fire in 1954.
Across from it, like an out growth of the terrain itself,
the gem-like Taktshang monastery clings to a sheer, 3000 foot
rock face. The name of this gravity defying cluster of buildings
means literally "The Tiger's nest," an allusion
to the popular legend that Padma Sambhava flews here from
Tibet on the back of a Tiger.
Today pilgrims and others visitors reach it in a more earthbound
but no less dramatic fashion by climbing on horseback up a
steep and winding track.
Even higher than Taktsang, poised on a projecting rock spur,
the Sang-tog Peri monastery overlooks the whole Paro valley.
Built in harmony with the natural features of its site, this
300 year old retreat is, in name as well as by virtue of its
lofty elevation, "the temple of heaven."
|
Home
| About Us | Contact
Us | Site Map | Feedback
