High on the hill but down in the dumps

Shrikhola, April 27: A decent road, electricity, health and drinking water haven't arrived here yet. Neither have politicians and their promises. But a handful of rock faces with graffiti painted by CPM cadre - who braved a steep 11-km trek over slippery trail and receding oxygen levels - bear credence to Shrikhola's claim to fame.

At 12,000 feet, Shrikhola Junior Basic School is the second highest polling station in the country and the highest in Bengal. Voting, for the 628-strong electorate here, is viewed as an unwanted burden that upsets their tedium of daily life once every five years.

"Sure we cast our vote. We voted even when the elections were boycotted by the GNLF. But the time we waste at the booth delays daily chores, like taking the sheep and mules out to graze and working at the farm," said Bir Bahadur Subba, prodding his ration-laden mules up a steep slope.

And what does he expect the elected representative to do for them? "Don't know," he says after a moment's thought. "No one has ever come to us with promises of improving our lives." Then why, he is asked, do they vote?

"True, we have nothing to expect. But then again, what do we have to lose? What if some leader we voted for suddenly decides to do something for us? Imagine what a pleasant surprise that would be," he said, a smile breaking on his lips. Shrikhola is 12 km from Rimbick, which, in turn, is 82 km and a five-hour drive from Darjeeling town. Campaigning candidates have come as far as Rimbick but have never seen this clutch of voters 11 km away. They seem to think it's too much work, and risk, to climb up to the hamlet perched at a dizzying 12,000 feet to raise the hopes of a mere 628 people.

Residents may not have seen them, but they sure know the names of the contenders to the Lok Sabha seat.
"We hear their names on radio and read them in newspapers when we go down to Rimbick. There is Dawa Narbula of the Congress, Mani Thapa of the CPM and G.S. Yonzone of the BJP," Subba rattles off.

"Hopes of development end at Rimbick and here there is apathy everywhere," he said.

Five women have died giving birth in the past three months. Residents don't remember having heard of anyone from the village in need of medical help ever making it to a hospital.

"No one lasts through the treacherous three-hour descent to Rimbick. The mule-tracks (the only route that can be followed) are so narrow, than in most cases, two persons cannot abreast each other. There have been incidents in which people carrying the sick have been injured in a fall," said Nima Tashi Sherpa, who owns a shop near Shrikhola school.

Many students who study in the schools at Rimbick are forced to trudge uphill and back six days of the week. The pursuit of studies keeps them away from home for 12 hours each day.

"If politicians ever come here, we will request them to construct a motorable road. Electricity, health centres and other amenities like drinking water can wait," he added.

Life is hard for Shrikhola residents, but no one complains. The constant struggle to eke out a living leaves them with little time to discuss what could have been.

Pack-mule owners, who use the beasts to ferry rations from Rimbick charge Re 1 for every kilogram that the animals carry.

Primarily farmers, residents here are given a raw deal even when it comes to selling their produce. "We grow potatoes, peas and maize, to sustain ourselves and to sell for money. But businessman who come to collect our produce, pay us very little. Last year, we were given only Rs 2 for a kilogram of potatoes. We were asked to transport the stock to Rimbick had to pay mule owners Re 1 from our own pockets to do so. On an average, a mule can carry only around 50 kg," said Sherpa.

Bina Rai, the GNLF gram panchayat member of the area, said: "The panchayat alone cannot work miracles and build roads to fulfil the people's demand. We receive around Rs 10,000 per village, annually, and with this money we are constructing pathways."

She too agrees that with only 628 votes coming from the area, no one is "really interested" in lending their ears or a helping hand to the villagers in distress.

What Yangtham, a resident of Gurung village, said, summed up the collective feelings of the silent sufferers. "During each election, poll officers curse themselves for being posted here. Shrikhola finds a place under the sun because it is the highest polling station in the state. But no one talks the residents being down in the dumps."

Courtesy
The Telegraph

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